They're social networkers, they're tech savvy and digitally connected. They're top-notch salespeople and marketers. They're — farmers?
Young (mostly), enthusiastic and committed, The Greenhorns are advocating a completely new model for agriculture that's taking root in the North Country and beyond. A farm-based, grassroots, nonprofit organization founded in 2007, they have the mission of recruiting, promoting and supporting America's new generation of young farmers.
About 150 of them from the Hudson and Champlain valleys, Capital Region, Adirondacks and Vermont arrived for an inaugural event — the Midsummer Essex Grange Mixer — by carpool, train, bicycle and ferry June 25 for a day of workshops and networking at the historic Grange Hall in Whallonsburg.
And it wasn't without a little fun, including a farm-fresh dinner complete with a pig roasted on a custom-welded spit, dancing and mingling by bonfire. Music by We Are Jeneric and a puppet show by Justin Lander and Rose Friedman of Modern Times Theater topped off the evening.
CHANGING THE TREND
The Greenhorns are trying to counter a longtime trend of farmer attrition and aging. The average age of a farmer in the United States is 57 and, in New York, a farm is lost to real-estate development every 3.5 days.
"We're interested in a big problem," said Greenhorns Director Severine Fleming. "How do we start our businesses, farms and families in a broken economy? What is the role of the young farmer in fixing America? I think that's a role we're willing to take on."
On an economic level, that includes selling a variety of goods directly to local consumers rather than sending a single, mass-produced product to the commodities markets. There, speculators often make out better than farmers, who must sell high volume at a very small profit margin and have the price dictated to them.
"That's where the opportunity is," Fleming said, explaining that the costs per acre become more promising by growing all the things a customer needs and selling directly.
ESSEX FARM
One of the pioneers of the movement, Essex Farm, owned by Mark and Kristin Kimball, is located nearby on Route 22 in Essex.
"They really are a leader in the nation," Fleming said. "They're innovators. A lot of people come to Essex because they've heard of Essex Farm."
Kristin recently wrote a book describing the farm's founding and philosophy titled, "The Dirty Life, on Farming, Food, and Love."
Fleming, whose farm is in the Hudson Valley, said the young generation of farmers realized they had to get together and advocate for their needs.
"It's a hard thing in the beginning," she said. "It's hard work, you're alone. But it seems like the right way to live your life on every level, working hard and feeling good about it."
MOVEMENT MUSHROOMING
They also have adopted grange halls, respecting the traditions of farming, but using different tools that fit their needs, from high tech to low.
Fleming said she sees the movement mushrooming, which is "wonderful and terrifying" at the same time.
"The obstacles we face aren't growing easier," she said.
Access to land is a big problem, as is obtaining credit and financing to get things started, and the transitions are rarely seamless.
Farm sales and equipment auctions are becoming more common, as heirs see the difficulties experienced by their parents and decide not to farm.
"We need to keep the farm kids interested," Fleming said.
ECONOMIC EFFECTS
Then, the economic issues must be addressed. Greenhouses can cost $35,000, and it can take $50,000 to start a four-acre Community Supported Agriclulture (CSA) farm. The CSA model, used by Essex Farm and a growing number of others in the North Country and across the United States, involves charging a customer a set fee in advance and providing them with all the farm products they will need on a weekly basis.
It all takes a lot of "hard work, luck and magic," Fleming said, in addition to all their farm allies.
There are currently 7,000 people on their network, their blog gets 1,400 hits a day and their movie has been shown 85 times. Those interested can visit www.thegreenhorns.net.
COMMUNITY COALITION
Many community-based groups want to be partners with young farmers as they rebuild the local food system.
"The community aspect is so huge, and communities are getting it," Fleming said. "Young farmers' energy is critical to support. We're working all the time to grow our services and get better at what we're doing."
John Bingham, a volunteer with the Whallonsburg Grange, has been part of that involvement.
"I think it's vital for the community to establish food security through local farmers," he said. "The young people have the vision and the desire and need all the support and encouragement we can give them."
LOW, HIGH TECH
Andy Wekin presided over a demonstration of bike-powered engineering, one of the hands-on workshops that included composting, oxen driving, felting and dyeing, and farm-succession planning.
He said pedal power can provide for a multitude of needs, from spinning fabric, to making smoothies, to charging cell phones or powering coffee makers.
What's amazing about old tech and new tech, he said, is that last century's solutions such as pedal-driven sewing machines still work.
"But now we have to have these gadgets," he said.
Ian Alter, of Fledgling Crow Vegetables CSA in Keeseville, said his business has been growing.
"We've added about 30 or 40 (members) every year," he said. "We still do restaurants and about 30 different wholesale accounts around the area."
Dependence on the weather hasn't changed in new farming, though, including this year with all the rain and spring flooding.
"Because this year's been tough, we hope to just break even," Alter said.
GO GEEZERS
Not all farmers in the movement are young and just starting out. Shaun Gillilland of Willsboro jokes about "geezer farming,'' although he's not as old as the median age of conventional farmers. He began a second career in farming, raising beef, hogs, poultry and sheep after 25 years in the Navy.
While a second-career farmer may be more financially stable, it's still hard work, and he hasn't had a vacation in six years.
"You've got to love it," he said.
Though he took over an established farm, he lacked the knowledge and experience of his predecessor.
"If you don't have the inherent knowledge, it makes a difference," Gillilland said.
TIME, PATIENCE
Anita Deming, executive director of Cornell Cooperative Extension of Essex County, said the Extension service is doing as much as it can to support the efforts of new farmers.
When you first start out, she said, you lack experience and information. As an example of the difficulty, a new dairy farm doesn't become profitable for seven years.
"It takes a while before you find out what works for you," she said.
Apple trees take years to mature, and beef and even grape operations can take at least a couple years to produce.
"We really love our new-farmer program," Deming said. "Essex County has a lot of inexpensive land and rental land around. We've seen a lot of growth in this area."
INSPIRATION, SUPPORT
She agreed that many have been inspired by Essex Farm.
"They're really good at marketing and the products they've got."
She says the story they and others can tell enhances the customer experience.
"The cool thing about CSA is you can learn who your farmer is and what their story is."
Many people wish to support agriculture powered by horses, sustainable organic production, humane treatment of animals and other attributes.
"You can decide which farmer you want to support," Deming said. "It's a great economic model for the community."
She said Extension hosts new-farmer classes every year and the Adirondack Harvest program helps with marketing. A local-foods guidebook has recently been published.
"One of the things we really want to do is get mentors going," she said, adding that especially with the trend away from low-margin specialization to growing a wide variety of products and doing the marketing, there are a tremendous amount of things to learn.
"You're educating your customer and letting them understand why you're doing it," Deming said. "It's nice that people are caring about that. That's the great benefit of buying locally."
