By Julie Robinson Robards
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If there is one common thread that was woven into the fabric of Victorian society, it was sentiment.
The somber theme dominated the lives of those touched by tragedy during one of the darkest times in our nation's history.
The Civil War began in April 1861, and as men marched off to join the ranks, they left behind a lock of hair for their loved ones to tuck away into "lockets." They also carried with them the sentimental reminders of their wives, daughters and sweethearts — watch fobs woven from their hair.
In the event the soldier was killed, his hair would be woven into a piece of mourning jewelry — most usually a brooch or locket that was worn close to the heart. Often, the settings for these pieces were enameled black with seed pearls to represent tears.
RULES OF MOURNING
During these dreadful times, it was socially correct for a widow to go into full mourning for an entire year, during which time she wore nothing but black. At year's end, she went into half-mourning and was allowed to slowly introduce color back into her attire. Memorial jewelry was an important part of the mourning period, not only for its symbolism, but because it brought comfort to the bereaved.
Formal mourning traditions had been observed in England for centuries, and since Americans were greatly influenced by the English, they clung to the practice. However, it wasn't until the death of Queen Victoria's husband, Albert, in 1861, that mourning jewelry gained widespread importance. Victoria decreed that only jet jewelry would be worn at court for a full year.
Jet is a type of black coal formed from fossilized driftwood. It is easily carved and takes a high polish. The finest jet was mined from the cliffs near the coastal town of Whitby, England, where a small industry was developed in the mid-1850s. Shortly after Victoria's decree, a great demand for jet jewelry caused business to boom. By the early 1870s, there were 200 jet shops in the area.
The widespread demand for black lockets, brooches, bracelets, necklaces, buttons and beads created a shortage of jet. In America, substitute materials began to surface. Vulcanized, hardened rubber; gutta percha; shellac compositions; and dyed horn were all convincing imitations of Whitby jet. Americans also created Crepe Stone — made from acid-treated dyed onyx, and French jet — black glass produced by the Libbey Glass Company of Ohio.
During the half-mourning period, ornamental jewelry fashioned of dark horn and tortoiseshell was acceptable. These were often combined with jet beads, molded black glass components, garnets, seed pearls or gold inlay.
SYMBOLS OF GRIEF
The decorations on molded black mourning jewelry are significant. Flowers and foliage, shapes and symbols all tell a fascinating story of the lives of the deceased. Weeping willows need no explanation, but others do. The depiction of an ivy vine represents immortality — grapes and grapevines represent Christ.
Perhaps the most fascinating language is that spoken through flowers. A broken flower represents a life ended. Lilies, the symbol of purity, often memorialized women; and a daffodil or daisy was the symbol of innocence and youth.
A single rosebud suggested a child younger than 12, a partially opened rosebud represented a teenager or young adult, and a full bloom stood for someone in the prime of life. Two rosebuds entwined together were used to represent a mother and child who died together during birth.
Unending love was commemorated in forget-me-nots and deep grief in the morning glory. The lily of the valley symbolized restored life and happiness in heaven. A single hand holding a wreath of flowers stood for the memory of a husband or sweetheart.
Symbols
Other shapes and symbols were just as telling. A circle represented unending, everlasting life, as did a knot. Arches represent victory in life and death, and an archway or door points to the entrance to heaven.
The anchor, a symbol of hope and steadfastness, was often worn by the widows of sailors who were lost at sea or killed in battle. An anchor with a broken chain symbolizes the end of life. Crossed swords symbolized someone who died in battle.
The Christian cross — if draped in flowers with flared-out ends at the points — represents the death of an adult Christian. A cross standing on three blocks represents faith, hope and charity. Other Christian symbols of heavenly comfort and glory include the shepherd staff, a crown and the harp.
The draped urn is representative of sorrow and mourning and usually commemorates the death of an older person.
The fashion for mourning jewelry went out of style with the dawn of the 20th century. Today it is collected as a fascinating reminder of the lives and times of the people who wore it.
Julie Robinson Robards lives in Upper Jay. She studied at the Institute for the Study of Antiques and Collectibles in Emmaus, Penn., is an advisor to Warman's Antiques and Collectible Price Guide and is a plastics historian with two published books on the subject of Celluloid. Since 1995, she has been a writer for AntiqueWeek Newspaper.
Contact her at her website: celluloidforever.com.
