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January 8, 2012

South African hybrid offers versatility

Press-Republican

The wine I'm recommending this month is a Pinotage — the flagship variety of South Africa.

Fleur du Cap Pinotage, a fine example of the variety, retails for around $12 a bottle. It offers good value as a versatile and interesting red wine. Pinotage is actually a hybrid. It's a cross between two other grape varieties, Pinot Noir and Cinsault.

Pinot Noir is of course renowned for its complex flavors and light texture. It's very popular with winemakers in France, on the West Coast of the United States and in New Zealand. Cinsault is a less familiar variety, at least to Americans, but it is common in southern France. When Cinsault was brought to South Africa, it was cultivated widely and used in blends.

Cinsault's greatest contribution to South African winemaking was undoubtedly its role in the development of Pinotage.

The success of Pinotage is a good reminder that, traditional as winemaking is, there is always room for experimentation and discovery.

Though Pinotage was first released in the 1920s, less than a hundred years ago, it is the principal red wine of South Africa and the variety that is most associated with winemaking in that country. And it is enjoyed around the world. Trying a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Cinsault turned out to be a good idea. Pinotage is a modern hybrid wine that has achieved great success.

Cap du Fleur Pinotage highlights the bold flavors that often characterize the variety — and make for its appeal. There are notes of spice, chocolate and coffee, along with rich red berry flavors. There are even some vanilla notes. The spicy and fruity elements make for a good complexity, as they counterpoint each other.

At the same time, both elements have rich and bold characteristics. So the wine is also a good example of the New World style of winemaking that South African winemakers often use — it's bold and fruit forward, not subtle or restrained.

And when it comes to food pairings, the wine is quite versatile. It would pair well with lamb, duck or roast chicken. It would also be good with an assertive cheese or even with dark chocolate for dessert.

The label recommends pairing it with Bobotie — a delicious South African lamb curry dish with flavors of cumin, coriander, lemon and mango. Cap du Fleur Pinotage is a versatile red wine.

Next time: Noval Black Port

Chris Fasolino's interest in wine began with a trip to Italy. Since then, he has expanded his knowledge with research, tastings, and further trips to Italy. He believes there is a story behind every wine.

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