At the gate of the village of Amalfi, on the Mediterranean coast of southern Italy, there is a sign.
It reads, in Italian: "When the righteous are led to Paradise, it will be just another day for the people of Amalfi."
In May, I journeyed to Amalfi with my parents, Stephanie and Christopher Fasolino, and spent some time there. Let me take you through one day of the journey.
MORNING
We stayed at the Hotel Aurora, just outside the village. Each day began with breakfast in a garden terrace overlooking the sea, making it immediately obvious why the people of Amalfi feel as if they live in paradise. The garden was filled with a fragrant scent that reminded me of nutmeg; it turned out to be a plant called Neapolitan jasmine. Breakfast consisted of espresso for myself and cappuccino for my parents, along with cornetti — the Italian equivalent of croissants, similar to the French specialty but with a somewhat more cake-like texture.
The Hotel Aurora has its own cat — not exactly owned by anyone, but kind of a friendly local wanderer who often suns himself in the garden there. He didn't seem to have a name, so I called him Cappuccino on the assumption that cappuccino, in fact, was what he was looking for.
Today, we were headed for a place called the Emerald Grotto; so after finishing breakfast, we walked along the water to a nearby café that also served as a bus station. We took a bus to the nearby village of Conca dei Marini (the "Seafarer's Basin,") to reach our destination.
The Emerald Grotto is a cavern at the edge of the sea. Boarding small boats, we were rowed about the surface of the watery grotto, gazing at the amazing play of light. In the midst of the darkness, the surface of the water appeared to be full of light, a bright turquoise, beautiful to behold. And when the guide splashed his oar in the water, every drop that sprang up seemed to sparkle with the same turquoise hue.
The effect is caused by sunlight filtering through an underwater entrance way. The light is refracted, giving the water as a bright, blue-green color. (I have seen some photographs that portray it as emerald green, in keeping with the name. My own impression was of a blue-green color. Perhaps weather conditions or other environmental factors play a role.)
The Emerald Grotto is a place of astonishing beauty. As we looked at the bright and colorful waters, our flamboyant guide called out, half in jest and half in wonder, "Miracolo! It's a miracle!"
AFTERNOOn
Returning to Amalfi, we walked around the village, enjoying its quiet and peaceful nature.
It is as beautiful a little community as you can imagine, nestled on the shores of the bright blue Mediterranean, and from there, it climbs up a cliff, as many Italian villages do. The colors of the houses and the buildings are well-suited to the Mediterranean environment: creamy whites and warm yellows, with roofs of reddish tile. Outside the village gate are the docks and the jetties, endlessly fascinating places. There are fishing boats with bold colors and peeling paint, their nets drying in the sun. Colors of azure, cobalt and red seem to be favorites. And there are other kinds of boats as well. One day, a schooner with white sails docked there, apparently a private yacht. Farther out, cruise ships will anchor, sending smaller boats to shore for a few hours or a day. One such cruise ship was made to resemble an old-time clipper ship, and it carried tall masts and an array of sails.
Amalfi has always been a seafaring village. While it likely dates back to Roman times, its golden age was in the Middle Ages; then, at a time when much of Europe was faced with turmoil or stagnation, Amalfi was sending forth bold mariners to sail across the Mediterranean to trade with North Africa and the Near East. Within the city gate is a piazza surrounded by shops and restaurants. On one side, atop monumental stone steps, is the cathedral of San Andrea Apostolo. It is an ornate building adorned with glittering mosaics that are a reminder of the city's connections with the Near East. Another such reminder is the bell tower, which is decorated with yellow and green tiles formed in intricate geometric designs.
As we strolled around the piazza and enjoyed the bright, warm sunlight, we stopped for gelato at one of the many cafés. Then we wandered uphill, further into the city, enjoying the quiet and narrow streets — most of which are pedestrian-only — and stopping to look at the shops. Many storekeepers displayed Amalfi's famous lemons, which can be enormous and which are known for their unusually sweet flavor. Indeed, the "sweet lemons of Amalfi" are proverbial.
EVENING
For supper, we visited a restaurant called Torre di Saraceno — the Saracen Tower. It is actually a stone watchtower, situated at a strategic location on the edge of Amalfi, overlooking the sea. Dating from the Middle Ages, the tower was used to keep a lookout for Saracen pirates. Today, it is a restaurant serving local specialties.
I ordered a "fresh, local fish" with lemon and oranges, which was delicious and full of flavor. It was drizzled with Amalfi lemon juice — actually, the lemon juice was poured rather than drizzled — and garnished with orange slices. My mother ordered pasta with lemon sauce (are you sensing a theme?). My father had spaghetti with white clam sauce, and the waiter kindly forgave him for ordering a dish that did not involve lemons. Along with the meal, we enjoyed a wine that I had never tried before this trip. (I'm in the midst of trying to order it here in Plattsburgh). Called Tramonti, it is a wonderful red wine of the Amalfi Coast, very rich and full-bodied, yet with a bright, vibrant fruit flavor.
After a delicious meal, we walked back to the Hotel Aurora, enjoying the beauty of the lights along the docks reflecting upon the surface of the sea.
It had been like a day in paradise.
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